Thursday, January 11, 2007

New old pics

Just posted some pictures from last September, when Mom and Shauna and I went to the airport for our Germany send-off. They're pretty funny, mainly due to the sheer amount of baggage we are attempting to transport! See the "And More Pix" link to the right...

Wednesday, January 10, 2007

There and back again

Well, good middle of the night, Interweblandworld! It's 1.13 in the morning, and my alarm will go off in about four and a half hours, and I've slept all of nine of the last sixty hours... and I am wide awake. Too exhausted to sleep? Could be. Funny how jetlag seems to get reliably and noticeably stronger every time. It took me almost the entire two-week visit home to Tucson to not fall asleep at 7.3o on the couch every evening, only to then be awake for good at 3 am; and now, regardless of total, burning-eyed, achy-bodied exhaustion, my fingers are typing merrily away. Betrayers!

Some of it -- check that, all of it -- has to do with the fact that my luggage took a little vacation in Denver while I continued on to Frankfurt. At first, this was exasperating: "Great, just what I need after 20 hours of travel." But then I remembered that the two bags, densely loaded as they were with Christmas goodies for myself and others, weighed in at a hefty 50 lbs each; and that I was also about to take two trains and a taxi to get home. Which can be quite an adventure, with two anvil-like bags, two bursting-at-the-seams carryons (I could actually hear them groaning), and arms already full of wool coat and purse and pillow. (Yeah yeah, I bring a pillow on international flights. I will do this until I am eighty. After which I'll bring the bedspread, too. ;o) ) Anyway, so after being assured by the highly apologetic Lufthansa clerk that my bags would be delivered right to my front door the very next day after work, I lightly skipped aboard the respective trains and arrived home to my bright apartment, thoroughly tired but relieved, on Monday afternoon. Too bad my bags wouldn't come until the next evening; I was excited to give out the gifts I'd packed. But hey, free delivery service! That was worth a little wait.

Well, without going into further details, suffice to say they did finally arrive... but not before Tuesday night had become Wednesday morning. And because I didn't want to miss the delivery guy and face the prospect of making a trip to the Frankfurt airport, and then having to lug all the stuff home after all, I resisted the strong urge to fall asleep at 6 in the evening, though I was pretty sure I could easily have slept through to the next morning.

So here I am, at now 1.30 in the morning, still in the world of the waking. Dang second wind. Er, seventh wind. Whatever. I'll just fall asleep in front of the ninth-graders tomorrow, and they can spend an amusing class period drawing things on my sleeping face with a ballpoint pen. At least I'll get some rest!

The holidays were great, though. Really great. After the initial flightmare of finding myself heading, not from Frankfurt to Tucson as planned, but instead from Munich to Los Angeles -- where I then made a Chariots-of-Fire, 1.5-mile dead sprint, comically bulging and bouncing luggage in tow, to catch a chancy new connection via Southwest -- I collapsed gratefully onto one of mom's couches with her, Michael, and Shauna. Yay! Amy arrived the next day, and the five of us spent a lovely holiday together. Steve flew in on the 26th, and we all spent the next week running around trying to visit everyone in the entire city, run stateside errands, do more Christmas shopping for some folks here in Germany, collect some sunlight to take back to our northern latitudes, see as much of Mom as possible in her free time, and eat as much Mexican food as we could cram into our guacamole-starved bodies. Gallucci came down for a whirlwind overnight visit (after much schedule-juggling and other hitches -- thanks, Matt!), and then, for the last day and a half, mom and I actually had some time to spend just one-on-one. There is never enough of that! It was so great to be able to see everyone. But sometimes, in order to see all the people you want to see, you sacrifice spending any real quality time with any of them. Thanks for understanding, guys. I promise there's less going on over here -- come visit me on this side of the pond! :)

Speaking of visits, though, Shauna arrives in less than a week! Huzzah! That really eased the pain of leaving. We have all these grand designs of trying to get to Denmark or maybe France while she's here; but I kinda get the feeling that, once she gets here, all we're really going to want to do is while away the hours at a cafe. Though a weekend trip to the Erzgebirge would be cool. I'm trying to finagle a way to visit Conny and Nate in Berlin while she's here, too; we shall see!

All right, I'm sure there are more riveting details from these last few weeks that are just not surfacing in my dried up, sleep-deprived brain; but it's now almost two, and I really really should try to get some more sleep before another long day at school tomorrow. Happy New Year, everybody. As they say at Rosh Hashanah:

Let the new year and its blessings begin. :)

Wednesday, December 20, 2006

Homeward bound!

As beautiful as Neustadt is, it's missing a key element or two. So I think I'll hop a plane tomorrow and see what they're all up to in Arizona for Christmas! :)

Monday, December 18, 2006

A new roommate

My cozy apartment just got cozier, thanks to my new roommate from Dresden. He's quiet, doesn't eat much, and he sure smells good!

Lemme explain. The Erzgebirge is a mountain range near the eastern German border, which is famous for its woodcarving: especially around Christmastime, the area's hand-carved wooden figures, finely-cut Christmas tree decorations, Pyramiden (diaramas in which the figures spin around by means of a candles and wooden fans), and especially the characteristic Schwibbogen
(arched candle holders with traditional images underneath) are staples even in western Christmas markets.

Pyramide:

Schwibbogen:


The most famous of the hand-carved figures, however, are the Räuchermännchen: "little smoking men". These are hollow, often wearing miners' costumes -- "Erzgebirge" literally translates into "ore mountains"-- and have round holes for mouths. When you place an incense cone inside one, the scented smoke comes drifting out of his mouth. Eeee! If ever smoking could be made adorable..! Anyway, they range anywhere in size from a couple inches to a couple feet. The problem is that, no matter how simple or detailed, their fame and quality make them pretty pricey. I was coveting every Räuchermännchen I saw when Bert and I visited the Annaberg Christmas market a couple weeks ago. Alas, they were too cute for my pocketbook.

Well! Bert went back to the Erzgebirge last weekend for his sister's birthday. And what did he return with? My very own
Räuchermännchen! Except this guy isn't a miner -- he's a rockin' wizard. Delicately stained, with a long beard, walking stick, dark red hood, and heavy-lidded eyes, he is cool indeed. We lit him up (with appropriately-scented "wood moss" incense), and the long tube of smoke curling out of his mouth made him look strange and sorcerous. I wonder if he comes alive at night and casts spells? We shall see. I might wake up tomorrow morning in a forest of mushrooms.

staring:


smoking (while contemplating some spells):


Dunno about you, but I hear a men's choir when I look at him. Ahh, AAHHH, aaah!

So! What should I name him? Merdalf? Gandlin?

Saturday, December 16, 2006

How to make Feuerzangenbowle

Step One: fill a pot with mulled wine.



Step Two: suspend a cone of sugar above the pot.


Step Three: douse the sugar in something tasty and flammable, like rum.


Step Four: fire!


Step Five: watch the sugar burn, until Step Six....


...when it has almost entiredly melted down and dripped, caramelized, into the wine.


Step Seven: Enjoy!

Step Eight: Enjoy again.

Step Nine: Apply Christmas wreath to head. Dance around a little. Pour more Feuerzangenbowle. Sing off-key and loudly along to Burl Ives' "Holly Jolly Christmas."

Step Ten: Spend entire next day in your pajamas, eating Nutella straight out of the jar because getting up and making real food sounds like too much effort! ;o)

Happy Hanukkah!

Last night was the first night of Hanukkah, which means that Temple Emanu-El back in Tucson is enjoying a flurry of activity. To Rabbi and Marjorie, and all the Temple staff: I hope you had a fun and successful first-night service! Wish I could have been there to sing this year. To everyone else who lit the first candle last night: chag sameach!

Slate magazine posted a lovely series today of photos taken of Hanukkah observances over the last fifty years. Some are quite introspective; others make an impact. Have a looksee!

http://todayspictures.slate.com/20061215/

Neustadt at Christmastime


Ooh, speaking of Weihnachten: went for a lovely long walk today with the camera. Check out this Rheinland Christmas paradise! :)

(The above album can also be found under a new link to the right: "And More Pix". The pictures have finally overflowed onto another picasa page!)


Friday, December 15, 2006

Eine kleine Nachtmusik

Well, this week has just been brimming with culture! Some high, some not so high... though I suppose it all depends on your perspective. ;)

First of all, I should mention that Frau Griesemer is a champ at making sure I have access to all the yummy little cultural tidbits around Neustadt: clipping out newspaper articles on exhibitions and concerts, finagling me free tickets for various excellent performances... a couple weeks ago, it was a Klezmer concert by a world-famous Jewish music trio! That was awesome. Last night, we saw an operetta: "Madame Pompadour". If you haven't seen/heard it, I'd recommend it! Although my enjoyment was probably exclusively the doing of the fantastic cast. I've been to operas before where the players could sing... and that was pretty much it. Mom and Shauna, remember when we saw "Romeo et Juliette," and during the death scene, the two expressed their undying love for each other by standing stiffly on opposite sides of the stage and reciting their arias like dutiful human clarinets? Or Ron, remember when we saw "Carmen", and the set consisted entirely of a single chair and an abstract, sloping wall? Not this troupe! They could not only sing, they could act. They were funny, creative, engaging -- and the sets and costumes were so sumptuous that sometimes I had trouble focusing my ears on the music, my eyes were so preoccupied! And to top it all off, Frau Griesemer treated me to a glass of sparkling wine at intermission -- and as you can imagine, sparkling wine in this region is almost as good as an entire opera. All in all, 'twas a lovely evening.

...And quite different from Monday night, when Bert and I went to a metal concert! It was in Mannheim, with a band called "In Extremo" (hahaha, love that name). I'd enjoyed a couple of their songs before, and Bert had gotten me a ticket to accompany him that night with some of the other Ludwigshafen crowd; so, always open to new sounds, I went gamely. And it rocked! Their music is pretty hard, but also surprisingly melodic at times. And get this -- they have bagpipes! Three bagpipers stalk about the stage while the lead singer sings his studded dog collar off, occasionally punctuated by the Standard Bursts of Flame, Without Which No Metal Concert Would Be Complete. Actually, at some point the drummer even lit his sticks on fire, and proceeded to play almost a whole song with these fireballs on the end of his drumsticks. Awesome. Oh, but no worries, family: I think we were not only sweaty enough from dancing to be pretty flame-retardant, but we also stood near the back, anyway, 'cause Bert forgot his earplugs (though weirdly enough, I just happened to have some floating around in my purse; however, he insisted I keep them for my virgin American ears). It was really fun. The music was good, and I don't think there was a single person there who wasn't all decked out in black... though the band's reputation for using bagpipes brought a funny array of SCA-types, too. Haha! So now I can say I went to a German metal concert.

(Here are some of the girlies from Ludwigshafen, at the concert.
L to R: Anne, Nadia, Julia, me):



Ooh, and now I jusht got back from a -- hic! -- Chrishmash party with some of the teachers from shcool. It wash fun... more tomorrow! ;oP

Wednesday, December 13, 2006

Cookery

As a side note, cooking/baking is always fun in my apartment. My "mixing bowls" consist of various saucepans, and a plastic bucket that must have originally come with a brightly-colored sand shovel. The "cookie sheet" is that pot roast pan -- you know, the one which comes standard in every oven? -- luxuriously covered with a fine layer of brown wax paper. (Only as they do in the finest bakeries, of course.) And Nigel discovered for himself the joys of making an omelette with a wooden spatula in a non-nonstick pan. Oh yeah!

But hey, it all still works. :) And thanks to Mom's piemaking tools, Dad & Sarah's measuring cups, and Brigitte Hamann's electric mixer, my first attempt at self-made piecrusts for Thanksgiving actually came out pretty well! :)



A proud display of two rootin' tootin' all-Amurrican punkin pahs.

Friday, December 08, 2006

Ach, du lieber Dezember!

Yayyy! I love this time of year. Especially when it's in such a beautiful place... went for a long walk yesterday, and kept stopping to look around and pinch myself that I get to live here until at least next summer. It's been three months, and I still do that on a pretty regular basis!

Gosh, so much to catch up on, and so little time before I have to pack up and catch a train to Ludwigshafen (where I'm meeting Bert to drive to the Erzgebirge today). So I'll try to just hit the highlights real quick:

Thanksgiving: marvellous! Cooked a dinner on the evening of Friday the 24th with a bunch of other English teachers at the high school. My coworkers are so great. Funny, friendly, open... and brave! Mom (bless her!) had sent me a bunch of ingredients for various holiday goodies that I just can't find here in Germany, some of which being pureed canned pumpkin and pie tins. So most of the teachers were able to try pumpkin pie for the first time... a leap of faith, given that my description of it was "sweetened, spiced squash filling in a dessert crust". And then they proved themselves even more valiant when I ceremoniously removed the lid from the Watergate Salad: pistachio pudding, whipped cream, crushed pineapple, multicolored minimarshmallows, and coconut, all blended up into a radioactive green goo. Yum! Everyone at the table peered into the bowl, glanced surreptitiously at each other, and then dug right in. And happily, both desserts appeared to be quite the hit! :)

The next weekend, Nigel came to visit, and we had a nice, chill (heh heh, get it?) start to December. On Friday evening, he and Anna and I, along with Annette (another new English teacher at my school) checked out the Christmas market in Landau. Then we went to see the new James Bond; and the next day, Nigel and I hopped a train to Heidelberg to see what it has to offer during the Adventszeit. Answer: an even bigger Christmas market! We had a lovely time... strolling around in the low winter sunlight, sampling gingerbread and candied almonds... and about three cups each of various forms of Gluehwein (mulled wine). Mmm!
That made for a very merry trip back on the train! :)

That night, I went to a party in Ludwigshafen with some of Bert's friends; and like everything else, it was a blast. We listened to music, made dinner, and exchanged gifts. Bert was the "Weihnachtsmann", and he even showed up in a white beard and Santa cap. At some point, he pulled his beard down to take a drink of something... and one of the other guys pretends to burst into tears, yelling, "There is no Weihnachtsmann!! It's only Bert!" Hahahaha! Oh man, I like the Ludwigshafen folks.

Oops, I gotta wrap this up. Long story short: December has been fantastic so far. :) Will take lots of pictures this weekend! Huggles aus Deutschland...

Thursday, November 30, 2006

On second thought...

Well, just make a liar out of me! After that whole introvertist manifesto last night, I go around being totally chatty and sociable all day today. Hm, well, I guess, being the complicated organisms we are, you can never just pidgeon-hole people -- including yourself. (Either that, or that Myers-Briggs test was pretty accurate when it pegged me as an E/INFP, which means equally balanced between extroversion and introversion.)

Okay, how about this: a lot of the time I like to chat and hang out. But if I'm just sitting there listening rather than talking, please do forgive me, and don't take it as a sign that anything's wrong. I'm just letting my inner introvert out for some exercise. :)

Wednesday, November 29, 2006

INFP

Wow! This post is even longer than the last one. Should ye decide to embarke upon its rambling depths, be ye forewarn'd! ;o)

Here it be...

******

Amy found this article on introverts.

http://www.theatlantic.com/doc/200303/rauch

Huh. And I thought I was just getting antisocial in my old age. (Same thing? ;o) )

I always thought I was an extrovert, because I really like people. I'm generally happy, friendly, and, I think, pretty open -- I mean, hey, I'm bearing my brain practically every day on these here internets! But when I think about it, I derive lots of things from socializing: pleasure, heart, learning. However, I don't derive energy from it. In fact, after a day of lots of interaction with lots of different people, I really need time to recharge my batteries. I'm not at all shy; in fact, I have no trouble at all talking to strangers. I just don't always "need" to. Sometimes after a day full of people, I just need to not talk for a while! Mom says that, during her breaks at work, she'd often just rather read a book or eat lunch with her own thoughts than sit around and chat. I certainly identify. However, unlike what the author of the article suggests, I don't (and I don't think Mom does, either) find extroverts boring or irritating -- quite the contrary! I even admire their ability to turn on a constant stream of effortless communication. But it can be frustrating how, in our society, you're expected to keep this up all the time.

I wonder if there's an assumption that being introverted means being misanthropic or unhappy? Maybe that's why people often mistake my general good nature with gregariousness -- if I'm happy or friendly, I must also be an extrovert. I wonder if this is why I sometimes feel like I disappoint my friends, because I give off the impression of needing more social interaction than I really do? Don't get me wrong, I'm no loner. Everyone needs friends. And I have some pretty cool friends. But I also don't have any problem being by myself either, and even need a pretty good measure of it in order to recharge. I've often scratched my head at the apparent need for most everyone I know to be socializing what seems like all the time. But maybe it's not them at all: I'm the weird one! According to this article, the majority of the population are extroverts: socializing is how they relax and re-energize. So what seems like "all the time" to me is pretty reasonable to everyone else.

It certainly is more practical to be wired that way. To be successful in school, your job, and relationships requires constant social interaction. It's a sign of leadership. This is what makes a person likeable and what makes them appear proactive. And because I can do this pretty well when I need to (I mean, I'm a teacher, for goodness' sake), I haven't let being introverted inhibit my success. It's just that it seems to take so much more effort for me than for others, and I really need my downtime in order to keep it up.

What gets me thinking about this is that it seems my predecessor at the school where I work was naturally very extroverted. From the sound of it, Elodie made her colleagues her life. And she had a marvellous time, and her German became perfect, and they all loved her and still miss her. I met her myself, and liked her enormously: she's funny, smart, friendly, and sincere.

But I'm slowly realizing that the other teachers expect me to be just like her. I mean, if one more person reminds me one more time about how she spent like 20 hours a day in the teachers' lounge, while giving me one more "meaningful look"...! What actually baffles me is that I do socialize with the other teachers. They're great. I lucked out in how fun and nice and interesting my coworkers are. I hang out and chat while at the school, and have gone out with them several times in the evenings and on weekends. But for one thing, they're not the only people I know here; and even if they were, do I have to spend all of my free time socializing in order to show that I like them and want to be a part of the group? I suppose so; it's part of living in an extroverted society. But compounding this is the fact that I'm also getting to know lots of other (German, I might add) people who have nothing to do with the school, and so it spreads me even thinner.

Because of this, I get the feeling that Frau Griesemer is worried about me. I've mentioned being able to talk to my family on the webcam at home, and now she seems to think that's what I do all the time, to the exclusion of getting to know my coworkers. Don't get me wrong, Frau Griesemer is fantastic. She bends over backward to make sure I'm happy and comfy and have opportunities to make the most of my time here. She even clips out newspaper articles about the region which she thinks I might find interesting, and leaves them in my box at work! But maybe this is just part of what is misunderstood about introverts? Sometimes, when I get home in the evening, I don't need to talk to anybody. I'm not sitting around bored and lonely and homesick, or holing up in my apartment and avoiding integrating into the city and the culture. In fact, a lot of my "alone time" includes exploring the city or going for long walks to check out other towns nearby. I just don't always need to be surrounded by a bunch of other people to do it.

But I can't complain. I mean, people like me and want to hang out and make sure I am enjoying myself here? How terrible! I guess it's just hard when you realize that in order to show your appreciation, you have to constantly be fighting your own nature. Sigh. Did I pick the wrong career path? Maybe I should be an arctic fisherman or something, so that in my free time I'm foaming at the mouth to have someone to talk to.

Okay, I've now spent over an hour posting on my blog. Maybe I am holing up in my apartment! ;o)

Tuesday, November 28, 2006

Alles nur geklaut

Well, that cinches it. November, I'm sorry, I know you're my birth-month and all, but you haven't been so very kind to me this year. I'm afraid we have to end it. Don't try to talk me out of it; I already have a date with December this Friday.

See, in order to balance the karma a little, the Powers That Be saw fit to whittle down my fabulous wealth last Sunday night. I just happened to be carrying around some extra cash; which never I do, except that Anna had paid me back for something and I just hadn't gotten around to getting to the bank to deposit it. Besides, it's surprising how often places only take cash around here: the doctor's office, most restaurants, the cell phone store where I recharge my minutes; often even train tickets can only be paid for with cash. So I really wasn't in an urgent hurry to get these 135 Euros into the bank, since having them around was turning out just to be so darned practical. Plus I liked logging into online banking, to see that my balance hadn't moved. I thought, maybe this is how I'll budget myself: take a little bit out, and see how long it can last me before I have to dip into my checking account again.

On the other hand, every time I opened my wallet, I winced a bit to see that much liquid cash. Just has never sat right. Back in Tucson, when I'd accumulate more than 50 bucks at a time, it was away to an ATM to get it somewhere safe!

Well... nothing like being proved right. I guess. At the Frankfurt airport last Sunday night, I also had another first, which was to leave my purse on a bench as I leapt for an S-Bahn. Seriously, I've never done that before! Although, to be fair, I've also never lived in a truly cold climate since I've started carrying a purse, and so what with gathering up sweater and leather jacket, you don't immediately detect that that something's missing. Until five minutes later, when you get off the S-Bahn. I ran back to every place I had been in the last half an hour, including that bench and the bathroom, but no dice. Purse gone. I started having daymares about having to replace my passport before flying home in December; about not having my housekey; having no ID, no money, no anything; about identity theives posing as an American on a visa. I mean, German beaurocracy is bad enough -- but trying to sort out an identity theft on top of it all, while trying to re-instate yourself as a legal resident?? AAAAAAA!!!

So while I was hyperventilating, the police found the purse and called me in. Amazingly, everything was still there: passport, keys, phone, chapstick, credit cards, cappuccino receipts, even the check Dad and Sarah had sent me for my birthday. Everything except the 135 Euro. The shock of having lost my purse, and then having found it again almost intact less than an hour later, only to then re-discover that I had been relieved of the small fortune I knew I shouldn't have been carrying around, was too much. I should have been thanking my lucky stars that everything else was still there, unstolen and (most likely) unphotocopied. At least, now I appreciate that. But there was this saddening feeling of realizing that some people are capable of rifling through your very personal belongings, seeing what kind of gum you chew and which scent you wear, even your name and where you're from and what you look like -- essentially be able to look you right in the printed eye, and still have no qualms about stealing your money from you. Maybe they thought I was a rich American tourist, instead of a poor foreign teaching assistant whose mom and sister paid her credit card bills last month. They probably weren't thinking that far at all. They just saw cash, took it, and didn't want to get caught with the rest. It was actually found by a maintenance guy on the same bench I left it. I suspected him, but the police pointed out that it would be pretty stupid to be the one to both steal it and turn it in, where it is then immediately noticed that money is missing. There was nothing they could do except file a police report for my "insurance company." (I guess most Germans have insurance for everything, even personal theft.) Well, I have emergency medical insurance, and that's pretty much it.

But you know what? I woke up yesterday morning and was overcome with gratitude that everything else was still there. I am out one-fifth of a month's pay, but other than that, this will have no truly lasting effects. As Mom once said: it's not that I'm lucky because nothing bad ever happens to me. Part of it is simply, on those few occasions when something bad does happen, it's never so bad as it could -- maybe even should! -- have been. So I'll just restock the rice and beans in the cupboard, cut out the morning cappuccino, and enjoy this beautiful almost-December air. It's foggy outside, and looks whiter and winterier than it has in weeks. School is going fabulously (I love my job!), and there are lots of fun things coming up in the next few days: Nigel coming to visit this weekend, a Weihnachtsmarkt (Christmas market) with some teacher friends on Friday, a party on Saturday, and maybe frying up some fajitas with the Hamanns on Sunday.

If you're family or friends reading this, I'm not writing this so that anyone will worry! There's nothing to worry about! I'm not carrying around any cash any more, my purse is all but stapled to my side, and I can still pay my rent next week. And that's really the only kind of crime around here anyway, this petty "opportunity theft". Furthermore, even that was in Frankfurt, not quaint little Neustadt. So, again, no worries! I'm fine! I'll just have to teach my purse some Taekwondo.

However, let this be a lesson to anyone who could use it! DO NOT CARRY MUCH CASH! Especially those of you in the States, for whom it's not even very necessary to do so. Heh, the cop even scratched his head when I told him how much had been in there. "Really?" he said, "Odd. Americans don't usually carry cash around." I told him he would be right... usually. Sigh. Oh well.

Oh, but speaking of German conceptions of American habits, I just realized I haven't written yet about Anna's and my funny little experience at the doctor's office! Gotta go for now, but more on that later. Coming to a blog near you!

Happy almost-December, everybody. :o) Hugs from almost-Christmas-Season Land!

Thursday, November 23, 2006

HAPPY BIRTHDAY AMY!!!

She and Shauna are heading down Tucson way to celebrate theirs and Michael's birthdays -- and also some obscure American holiday where they eat a weird-looking bird and a pie made out of a Halloween decoration. Crazy Amis!

Wish I could be there to celebrate with you, Aimster. You'll just have to eat my portion of the turkey and 'taters and birthday cake. :) Alles Gute und alles Liebe zum Geburtstag!

Tuesday, November 21, 2006

Runner's high

Wanna hear something? Lean in close. Ready? Here it is:

I HAVE FOUND THE SECRET.

Shh. Don't let it out or everyone will get in my way on the sidewalk. But after much drinking and eating and companionship and other such experiments, I have found the key to happiness. The best way to combat the cold and grey is with this:

Endorphins.

That's right, natural drugs. You put in your earbuds, turn the volume up on your catalyst of choice (currently it's noisy, clamorous, get-the-blood-rushing German metal, though just the other day it was happy bouncy techno) and you take off down the street at a dead run. By the time I round the corner and head down hill forty-five minutes later, pouring sweat and pigtails bouncing against the back of my neck to the same rhythm as my feet, "Erdbeermund" is pounding in my ears and I can see over the entire valley below Hambach. I can see for miles. As far even as the slender cooling towers of Mannheim in the distance, edged right up against the Rhein river. And I take off down the hill like I'm about to fly over the valley, and grab a handful of bright red autumn leaves as I run by and let them scatter out behind me, like some kind of crazy sprinting Hansel who needs to be sure to mark her path so that, when she comes back to occupy her body, she can find her way home.

Sunday, November 19, 2006

To everything, there is a season

Dad had a point once, when he said that the "official" start of every season is actually late by twenty-two days. You know how summer does not officially kick off until June 22, autumn on September 22, etc? Why not just bump it all back to the beginning of these respective months? I mean, do we really think that December 18th, for instance, is still autumn? Or that Saint Patrick's Day is in the winter? We proposed the following:

Winter: December 1.
Spring: March 1.
Summer: June 1.
Fall: September 1.

There. Isn't that how we already think of it, anyway?

What puts me thinking about this is that it seems to have suddenly switched seasons. Here in the Pfalz, they call last month "goldener Oktober." And for good reason! It was sunny and pleasantly warm, but the leaves were still bronze and copper and beautiful. There were grapevines and winefests, and the sun rose at, like, six-thirty am.

All of a sudden, it's like a curtain has dropped! Just in the last week, too. One morning, it was eight o'clock and I was walking to school in the sunshine without a jacket. The next morning, it was dark, cold, and foggy, and the sun decided to go down at what seemed like four-thirty in the afternoon. Seriously! It was dark at a quarter after five today! If I get out of school at 3:30 (typical for Mondays and Tuesdays), then I have less than two hours of daylight in which to go jogging or run errands, before it's too dark to do anything by yourself. It's been raining for a week, and the grapevines are a bunch of scraggly sticks. Hmph. Most disagreeable. I think the standard way people add some sparkle to the darkness is with Gluehwein and gingerbread, both seemingly excellent options; but frankly, I've gotten fat enough since I've been here, and so I've *just* decided to cut out the sweets and alcohol for a while. Nice going, Nikki!


On the bright (get it? :) ) side, the Christmas decorations are going up already. Now in Arizona, I would scoff at the idea of ribbons on streetlights before December 1st. There, it feels like forced "Xmas" cheer, rammed down your throat as early as possible in a thinly-veiled attempt to cash in on the pre-season buyfest; holiday-themed car commercials and garish Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer cartoons in shop windows, advertising 99 cent cheeseburgers... all made as shallow and meaningless as possible, because God forbid we actually admit there's some sort of *religious* connection to this holiday, and someone gets offended and decides not to spend their money at our chain store. Which is even more ridiculous, because no one is fooled, for example, into thinking a Christmas concert is not exactly that, just because one vague, generic, non-religious Hanukkah song about a feast of lights and a couple of "ya-ba-bim-bam"s are mixed in among the fifty other songs hailing the Blessede Birthe of Our Lorde and Savioure Jesus Christ, Hallelujah, to His Mother, the Blessed Virgin, Ave.

Here, on the other hand, there's something decidedly un-commercial about the garland-hung streets. It's like everyone just realized that it's time to drive some of this sudden darkness away with tiny points of white light, and maybe offer a bit of Lebkuchen in the bakeries, too. The decorations feel like something that is done for you, rather than to you. And maybe it's just the sixteenth-century architecture, or the fog on the ancient hills, but the way the Advent season is celebrated around here seems to recall the Yule traditions, born of ties to the land and seasons, that gave us holly decorations and lights in the first place. It's comfortable, calming, cozy; something about it speaks to the ancient part of you that remembers your ancestors huddling close together around a fire and telling stories, deriving comfort from the closeness of community against the vast dark forests around them. And yet at the same time, it is also unabashedly religious, which seems a much more honest way to celebrate the season than our American need to cover all our consumer bases. If you celebrate Christmas, then you celebrate Christmas; if you don't, no amount of calling it a "holiday" sale is going to trick you into thinking the rest of the religious majority isn't trying to foist their Xmas buyfest upon you.

All righty, well, this post is long enough. Lange Rede, kurzer Sinn: it's getting dark around here, but there are tiny white lights aplenty. :)

Friday, November 17, 2006

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, BRO!!!

Today is my brother's birthday! Michael, Shauna, and I have all spent the last week sharing the age of 26. Today, however, he moves on and leaves us behind to join the 27-year-olds at the grown-ups' table. Hope your birthday weekend is terrific, bro... and wish I could be there next week when Shauna and Amy come down to celebrate with you!

Love ya. :)

Nachdenken

Leipzig was... pretty cool. The part that I remember, anyway. It must have been fun, because Anna sent a bunch of pictures of me with my eyes half-closed and everyone looking like they're having a pretty good time; so I must have had a heck of a birthday. Parts I do remember include:

-how great it was to see Matt Johnson again. As we all expected, he's taken Cambridge by storm and now bends his Almighty Eye on the rest of academia and, dare I say it?, the world;

-a cool '70's-themed bar called "Flower Power", with flower-shaped tables, felt-draped ceilings and lamps, and all the best music ever made between 1960 and 1979;

-Anna doing "the Twist" in said bar, and looking like a painting all weekend as she wandered around in her blue scarf. The girl is just a dear. I'm glad I met you, Anna. :)

-Ivan "Here, Nikki, Have Another Peanut" Grubisic being the catalyst he usually is. And Anna and Jason brainstorming the best ways to bring the fresh-faced young Croatian into a life of hedonism and debauchery;

-Jason's lovely description of the joy of using a Q-tip to clean your ears;

-remembering how seeing Conny is always a breath of fresh air, and making plans to come visit her in the Erzgebirge in December;

-Bert's shocked response to Americans profaning beer with Irish Car Bombs (for the uninitiated, you drop a shot of Bailey's into a Guiness and chug it before the cream curdles. The aftertaste is delicious -- after you've gulped for air, of course). I think it was something like, "Ach, nein!" followed by looking at me with knitted eyebrows as I wiped my lips, and scolding, "Aber Frauen machen das nicht!"

-Nigel just being... Nigel. Thanks, Nigel. :)

-And, well, to be frank, a lot of unspoken thoughts on the last time I was in Leipzig. I didn't really think about it when we planned to make this trip in the first place, but the city has a lot of memories associated with it that made it hard to be there without brooding a lot of the time. For anyone to whom I might have appeared rather distant: sorry. That's much of the reason why I spent most of the weekend with either a beer or a Gluehwein in hand. Thank you for coming up, however, and making it a trip to (un)remember.






And to the source of the memories:
It's not the same city without you.

Thursday, November 09, 2006

Wandertag

We're off to Leipzig today for the weekend! Oh boy!

I got up at 7 this morning with a plan: clean, pack, shower, and prepare a lesson before leaving for school at 10.45, so that I could teach at 11.30; school over by 2.45; rush to Hauptbahnhof to catch the train at 3.30... all of which would of course necessitate bringing my weekend things to school with me, since the train station sits right between school and home. This I did. Anna had given me one of those awesome hiking-type backpacks, with hip and shoulder straps and everything; it's the size of a small duffel, and donning it with its many pulleys and levers sort of turns you into a backpack-human hybrid. So, thus clad, I lumbered out the door and began the 1.5-mile walk to school.

Maybe a third of the way there, it starts raining. I unpack myself out of the contraption, dig out an umbrella, foist everything back on, and continue on my way, holding the umbrella so low over my head that I must have looked like some strange humpbacked animal with a flat, green canvas head. The rain picks up; the rain starts pouring. I navigate down the million stairs that are the "Treppenweg" down the hill from my house; and by the time I've gotten to the bottom, my pants are soaked up to the knee and the rain is bouncing back up from the pavement so that it feels like it's coming from all directions. The Haupstrasse is a cobblestoned muck. Slosh all the way to school... finally emerge from the storm into the entryway, and shake out my mostly ineffectual umbrella.

Boy, it's quiet here. Well, I suppose it is the middle of a class period. Shoes squeak all the way up the stairs to the teachers' lounge. Open the door. Lights off, quiet. "Hallo...?" Nobody. Go to secretary, where there is actually a light on. "Um... good morning... did I miss something? Where is everybody?"

I should point out that the secretary always seems exasperated with me. To my credit at least, this is the first really dumb thing I've done since I arrived here; but I've still always gotten the sense she rolls her eyes every time after I leave her office, even if the only reason I entered in the first place was to pick up paperwork. But this time it was real: "Today is Wandertag (hiking day). It is CLEARLY MARKED on that tiny bulletin board, underneath the other bulletin board, in the paper-and-bulletin-board-covered corner of the teachers' lounge. (Eyeroll.) Good day, Frau Eggers."

I was sorely tempted to shake my droplet-covered umbrella at her, but instead I turned around, buckled The Contraption back onto my rain-and-sweat-soaked back, and went back outside. The rain had stopped! In fact, the sun was bright and glittery. Very bright and glittery. Noonday sunlight was reflecting off wet surfaces everywhere, and I ended up stripping off every layer but my undershirt as I huffed and puffed my way back up the billion stairs and the uphill march home.

Wandertag, indeed!

Monday, November 06, 2006

In the cold November rain

Well hey again, Ye Olde Interweb Worlde! Gosh, long time no post... sorry 'bout that... even though there be much a-goin' on here, yarr. Alas, as Amy points out, you get all these ideas when you're nowhere near your computer; but then there appears to be some kind of inverse relationship between how much contact is currently being exerted upon your fingertips by your keyboard, and the quality & quantity of aforementioned thoughts sloshing around between your ears. So how about I just start somewhere, and shake some of these incoherent thoughts out onto the keyboard, and see what comes up.

Lessee... Anna's buddy Mark from the States visited last weekend, and we had a grand old time. He was actually in England for a friend's wedding, and so just hopped across the creek to come see us Teutons on the continent, in exchange for a promise by Anna to pour lots of beer down his throat. And so we did! Thursday night, we sat around at a cozy little Gaststaette somewhere on the Weinstrasse and got thoroughly toasted. Friday, we wandered around Heidelberg, and then concocted some Gluehwein -- hot mulled red wine, with orange juice and sugar and spices, mmm! -- to ward off the cold evening. (Anna, I will never forget The Face!!) Sunday, we had the honor of being the only guests at this funny little medieval-themed pub downtown, where we polished off two liters of honey mead (mmm, mead...), strawberry wine, and blueberry wine. There's been quite a bit of alcohol flowing these last few days! No wonder I'm putting on weight, even though we must walk like ten miles a day!

Speaking of warm beverages, though, it's amazing how fast it turned cold here! I mean, richtig *kalt*. (For us Arizonans, at least... ;) ) Yesterday, I wore some thigh-high socks that Shauna sent from Seattle under my jeans, an undershirt, a sweater, another heavier sweater on top, gloves, a scarf, a wool coat, knee-high leather boots... and was still a weeeee bit chilly. Didn't help that it's kind of a wet cold around here... and they say this is the warmest area of Germany. Yikes! Though Nico and Ivan both rang to report of snow in Muenchen, sigh. Alas, Anna and I were unable to hold up our end of the pact to come down and roll in it. Well, it'll probably be a long winter. :)

Which reminds me! My birthday is this Friday. It's strange to type that: "my" birthday. Weird. Let's try this again: *our* birthday is on Friday. :) And since any occasion is an excuse to travel and meet up with other friends here in Europe, we're all meeting up in Leipzig! Yay! A city close to me heart. :) Even Matt Johnson is flying in. I'm so excited to see him! We will take tons of pictures. But anyway, so I've booked a hostel for 8 for Friday and Saturday nights, and we'll all meet up Friday evening somewhere (maybe Auerbachskeller, though that's kind of an expensive restaurant) and then play, play, play until tottering home Sunday afternoon. I'm so happy that everybody is willing to spend the time, money, and effort to come join us... Anna, Conny, Nigel, Ivan, Nico, Matt, and probably Bert, too. Heck, if I'm going to turn 26, I'm going to do it in a city that I remember fondly as a place of happy irresponsibility. :)

Oh, yeah, and work is going great... I finally put together a specific schedule, and got all the "good" classes to teach for the rest of this semester! Mostly the somewhat older ones, whose English is good enough to hold more meaningful discussions, and with whom it therefore makes more sense to talk about cultural matters with a native speaker (yours truly). And the other teachers continue to be fun and friendly, and constantly invite me to go do stuff with them. We're even all planning on cooking Thanksgiving dinner together! And sometime this week I'm supposed to catch up with a bunch of them for drinks... yeah, more alcohol. Well, I *am* engaged in cultural studies, you know. ;)

Allrighty, jetzt an die Arbeit. Hugs to all!